Sunday, December 26, 2010

Tuesday, December 7, 2010, Kotor, Montenegro

Montenegro is a small nation, 13,812 square kilometers (size of Conneticut) that has a great position in the Balkan Peninsula. They have a strong army and are extremely tall people, population -680,000; but are considered lazy.They have 10% unemployment. It's name means black mountains because from a distance that's how they look. The mountains are covered with dense dark green forests. From the boat you see black mountains, aquamarine water and red tiled roofed limestone villas and rocky, steep hillsides. Their people were originally Roman Catholic, but after Yugoslavai fell, the Serbs moved in in large numbers. Now they are mostly Orthodox. Boka Bay that leads to the town of Kotor is an UNESCO site because it is considered to be the most beautiful bay in the world. They are poor in natural minerals, just have limestone; but have natural beauty. The inner part of the bay resembles a fjord. Boka Bay means "out from". In the past ships would come into Boka Bay for trade, rest and repair. The shipyard was built in the 14th century by the bay because the water is always calm. The town in so far up the bay that the rough waters of the Adriatic Sea does not reach them. The coastline is gorgeous because it has pebbly beaches. Lots of people spend their summers here and it is extremely crowded. Last week in Vienna, Austria, the red wine Montenegro produces won the gold medal over a1300 other wines.
It was a little difficult to eat breakfast as we were sailing to Montenegro. The captain said it'll be very rough because the south winds were blowing very hard. He said anyone with a sensitive stomach needed to take some Dramamine. Daddy and I were fine.
For 500 years the Kingdom of Montenegro was able to protect itself against invaders because the have very high mountains.The walls around the city of Kotor were built from the 9-19 centuries. They have a seagate that holds the seawater back.. At the top of the mountain is the Our Lady of Herbed Remedy which in 1667 was the largest in Europe. It was built into the hillside and is only open now for the holidays because you need to climb 600 steps to reach it. These people are extremely tall and their steps have very tall risers. When the Black Plaque hit here in the 16th century they took the sick up to the church.
After WWII, Montenegro's borders were fixed by Tito, but they were basically the same as they were previous. As Yugoslavia they had plenty of industy. Plus, they had an industry based on organized crime. Their main industry was smuggling tobacco. After Yugoslavia folded, all of their industry was destroyed. Montenegro was liberated on November 21, 1944. Now, they only have tourism. The Serbs living in Montenegro did not want their independence in the civil war of 1991-1999, so they held out to the end. They were the last to receive independence, June, 2006. In 1998 they changed their currency to the German Marc. Then it was changed to the Euro; but it is not in the European Union.
Montenegro today is 70% Orthodox; but the southern half is Roman Catholic. They have learned how to harmonize together and there is a lot of intermarriages. They do whatever they have to to survive. One week ago today they had a huge rainstorm which flooded the town up to the bench seats. Today, there are still lots of big puddles. The mayor of the town is a lady and she requires they wash their stone squares every day. Inside the town the main square is called Weapons Square because this was where they made beautiful swords out of gold, silver and bronze. The clock tower was built in the 17th century and they continue the tradition of oiling the clock daily. The pillory in front of the clock was where they tied the criminals tom the building. The Pima family were the aristocrats that started education for all the people. Their castle is now the Grammar School and is 4 stories tall. The Roman Catholic Cathedral was built in 1166 with a clock tower dedicated to ST. Triphon, the patron saint of the town. From 809AD to 2009AD they carried his body through the town every February. This is part of their heritage.
The Maritime Museum has the 98 Coats of Arms from all over Boka Bay of the aristocratic families inside it's walls. There was elegant furniture made from the wood of the lemon trees. On display were many items that sailors brought back from foreign countries: elephant tusks, hair pins from the 18th century, fan from China, English dishes, guns decorated with gold, sliver, ivory and pearl, ornate gunpowder boxes with huge silver tassels. Ladies of that time carried carved blades inside their sleeves for protection when they were alone on the streets.
The Orthodox Square is called ST. Nick and was built in the 19th century. The ST. Luca Church was built in the 12th century and it is Roman Catholic. Their squares have restaurants with tables outside under huge umbrellas. These umbrellas curve up (looking upside down to us) because it forces the hot air to flow up, out and away, instead of staying under the umbrella. Neat idea! I ordered a cappuccino and a water while I people watched. The ladies wore a lot of leggings, patent leather boots that come above the knees, short skirts, wool coats, scarves and umbrellas. Most of the people have dark hair and eyes. Daddy went to walk the wall. I can't after re-injuring my knee in Dubrovnik. There are very few cars within the town walls. Instead the people drive bicycles with baskets on the front the size and shape of a coffee table to carry their wares. They could carry a month's groceries in these.
We were supposed to have a group of performers tonight on the boat performing local native folk dances, but the winds are so bad they cannot get onto the boat. The winds are called burras and are 55 to 70 mile per hour winds but no rain. it whips up the sea into very high waves and the boat has to anchor down with several anchors to try to level it out. These winds come down from the north and usuallys last for at least 8 hours. It'll be hard to sleep tonight with the boat pitching around. But at least when we sail away tomorrow, the winds'll be gone.

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