Dubrovnik, Monday, December 6, 2010.

Dubrovnik is an old city that was very wealthy during Mediaval times. This fortress was built from the 12th - 18th centuries. The main part of the town is called the Gruz which is the section closest to the Sea. It was in the center of all the trade routes and did very well also, having the third strongest fleet in the world. It was also powerful. The patricians built summer homes along the seashore. They are known for their long, hot, dry summers from April to November, and their cool winters from November to April. A couple of years ago it snowed in the winter and it stayed on the ground for 3 days. They had to ski down the streets. It's known for it's coral which it harvests from the sea.
It's economy is based on commerce. In the 7th - 13th century they began their commercial center. During the Byzantine Empire they acquired their autonomy then Venice took over from the 13th - 14 1/2 centuries. It became a city-state from the 14th- 19th century. During this time they had 50 consulates all around the Mediterranean Sea as spies. They had good relations with everyone and avoided wars. They were able to keep their freedom because they were wealthy from the salt trade and very strong with their fleets of ships. Their salt was exported everywhere. For only 1000 square kilometers in size they were a power. They emphasized brains over braun and were at the height of their diplomacy during this time. In the 16th century it had one of the largest fleets in the world, 280 ships. They developed excellent shipbuilding skills and have been known worldwide for their " Argusy" high quality ships and the Academy of Sea Faring. They have a population of 50,000, terra cotta roofs and walls one mile long. It took 500 years to build the wall in the 12th century.
In 1667, they had a large earthquake where 6000 people were killed. They never fully recovered. Plus at that time the new world was discovered and their importance in shipping declined. In the beginning of the 19th century Dubrovnik was captured by Napoleon and in 1808 it's republic was abolished.Then Austria gained control and from there on it has been downhill.
Yugo means south and slavia means land of Slavs. So Yugoslavia means land of southern Slavs. Saint Ursula is the patron saint of young girls and she is evident here. There are many statues erected in her honor. She overlooks a botanical island with a deserted
Benedictine Monastery. Mount Search is the highest point and that is where Napoleon built his fortress. There is a cable car that will take
you up there to see all of the surrounding land, but it was destroyed during the civil wars of 1991 - 1999. They have just reopened it. In fact, many of the roofs still show destruction of the war. UNESCO financed the reconstruction.
All around Dubrovnik are city walls and when they were built they were surrounded by a moat for protection. The ST. Lawrence port was built in the 13th century. The Venetians were going to attack so they had to protect themselves. The wooden draw bridge was closed at night and locked, and anyone entering the city had to have proof of who they were to gain admittance. Saint Blaze was the patron saint since the 10th century and on every February 3rd he blesses the city. The Peelee gate is Greek and is decorated with bay leaves which is a symbol of victory. Bay leaves are resistant to insects so they are placed on their houses to show they are healthy. Every person that gained admittance to this city had to bring a stone with them in order to be admitted. These stones were used to build their city. This area was called Rosara when the Illyrians lived here. Then it was called Dubrov when it was populated by Serbs. The main street now used to be a canal originally. The aqueduct is from Roman times with a huge dome with fresh running water from the spring of the Ombria River miles up in the mountains. Next to it is the Curch of Our Saviour from the 16th century. During the civil wars of 1991-1999, the Serbs cut off their water supply and their electric. Then they had to use the wells in order to survive.
Saint Francis stopped in Dubrovnik on his trip from the Holy Land to Rome. He started the Franciscan Monastery here. Originally it was outside the city walls and had vineyards. But Dubrovnik eliminated all of the large buildings outside of their walls, so the monks moved
inside. The monks couldn't work the vineyards so they started making wax candles and making medicines from herbs. This is the oldest working pharmacy in Europe. They still make the rose cream they made in the 14th century from the same prescription. You can smell the roses when you pass by. I bought a jar to bring home.
When the Black Plaque hit Europe from the 14th-16th centuries they established a quarantine building where people entering the town needed to stay for 40 days outside the city walls to be sure they were healthy. It could house 3000-5000 people at a time. Five women had survived the plaque so they were the nurses in the quarantine building and they cleaned it with vinegar. They even provided a church for the quarantine people called Church of Saint Rock.
In the monastery Cloisters, which are decorated in Baroque and Gothic styles, they grow citrus trees, olives and roses. Originally it
housed 30 nuns who never saw society. Now there are only 6, but they still segregate themselves from the outside world. They learned to spin lace from the agave plant. This lace is very expensive and labor intensive; therefore when it is completed it is hidden under glass. Surrounding the Cloisters are very colorful frescoes from the 15th century, which they are repairing and preserving. During the 13th century there was an orphanage, called ST. Claire convent, inside the city walls but connected to the Cloisters. Here a mother could place a child she couldn't feed on this window sill that had a wheel attached. When the nuns turned the wheel they were able to pick up the child, but not see the mother. The mother would break a coin in half and give half to the infant and keep the other half. If in a few years she had enough t be able to raise her child, she could come back and claim him/her by matching the coin halves together. If not, the child would be raised in the orphanage until they were 6 years old. Then they would be sent to the countryside to work. This ensured the children were fed and taught a trade.
They were known for their gold and they had certain standards which they had to meet. If the goldsmith did not meet their high standards, his hand would be chopped off . That practice ensured the quality. They also became rich on their harvesting of the coral from the sea. After the civil war in order to rebuild they used old stones from an old railroad station to replace the damaged houses. It blended beautifully.
Now inside the city walls the ground floors are all commercial shops. One street from the beginning extends up from the port into the town. It is called the Jewish Street. It began as the street where the merchants sold their wares. Now it has become the center for bankers and shippers. The upper floors are used as residential homes. At the very top are the kitchens because they need light to cook and the top floors keep the sunlight the longest. In addition, placing the kitchen at the top was a safety issue. Fires always go up, so the rest of their house would be somewhat protected for a while. During the 17th century they had 10,000 people; now they only have 1000. It is very expensive to live within the city. Most people live outside the city and rent out their houses in the city to tourists. The main square has the church of Saint Blais(Blaze), who is their patron saint; but he never visited this city. The Archbishop of this church had a dream in which he was warned about an attack from the Venetians. He alerted the town and they were able to defeat the Venetians.
At the East gate, Bloche, there is a bell tower with a clock that has two figures( Mato and Botto) that strike the bell on the hour and the half hour. The Rectors Palace was built in the 15th century. Each month a different person is elected to be the rector for 1 month only. That person must be a nobleman over 30 years of age. He is to live upstairs of the Rectory for that 1 month. The Rector wears a red gown with a black sash. Inside the Rectory is a Music room with very old instruments. It has a Venetian chandelier with grape shaped teardrop crystals. They had notary services, a fountain to wash clothes in, and a dragon dungeon for bad crimes against the state which led to death. If a nobleman was doomed, he had to walk the 12 stations of the cross then he was beheaded. If it was a poor peasant, he was hanged outside of the town. In the 17th century, they had carriages with sit down chairs for the royalty only. The servants carried the women and the soldiers carried the men. But the curtains had to remain open because they were so afraid of spies coming into the city and hiding. The upper middle class were usually merchants and the common people were craftsmen. The lowest level was the slaves, but they were not indentured, but free. Slavery was abolished in the 14th century.
We walked on our own in the town and found an Internet store and many shops. I was able to find a jewelry store that sold locally made items. In Medieval times the buttons on the noblemen's clothing were made out of filigreed balls of sliver and gold. These have been turned into earrings and necklaces. I was able to buy some. We also hiked up to the top of the huge wall that surrounds the town. These people have extremely long legs, even the women. They are at least a head taller than I am and that is the short ones. Therefore their steps have very high rises. I had trouble climbing up them and pulled my knee. The view from the top was awesome. you can see forever!