Split, Croatia, December 4, 2010

Split is the second largest city in Croatia and was originally called Salona by the Romans and Spalato by the Italiens in 1700. It is named after the yellow plant called broom that blooms all over the countryside in spring. It has 250,000 people and the Diocletian Palace which is a UNESCO site was built in 300AD and for 1700 years has been occupied by citizens living within it's walls. Diocletian was born in Salona from two freed slaves, entered the military and became famous for his abilities. He killed any Christian that he found. When he found his daughter, Vitalia, and his wife, Brisca, had secretly converted to Christianity, he had them executed 6 years before he died. He bought the land near the Adriatic Sea for his retirement home. It was built against the sea for a quick getaway if needed. It took 20,000 slaves to build it, of which 5,000 died. The limestone from Brach Island required 4,000 stonemasons to complete it. The Roman bricks were molded clay that were burned into bricks and held together by egg whites. The brown stone is raw travertine that has been cut into flat slats. Diocletian had it under filled so his apartment would be at the same level as the interior of the town. Originally the cellars were full of water from the Adriatic Sea. They threw their garbage and rubble down in the cellar. Surprisingly, this act saved the supports of the walls and floors; otherwise the currents of the Adriatic Sea would eventually have undermined the supports.. The shape of the Palace is a rectangle with Diocletian's apartments across the front half against the sea. He had 3 large bathrooms. and choose this site because he needed the sulphur springs for his rhuematism. Next to his apartments was Jupiter's temple where he worshipped his pagan gods. He actually felt he was a god himself. It was originally empty inside, but when Christianity took over, they adapted it to their needs and added the cross shaped tub to be used as a Baptistry. The bell tower was built in the 15- 16th century and is located outside the north Gold gate. This is the tower Napoleon turned into stables .The towers are square on the outside but circular on the inside and this is called a Roman vestibule; a word still used today. Outside the north gate is a statue of Gregory from Niem near Zadar. He hated the Italiens so you can rub his toe and be granted a wish. The first Medieval homes were built 1500 years ago. The back of the palace were for the military and their families. The
courtyard square called the Peristyle divides the palace in half. It is open to both sides. There are 54 red columns Diocletian had shipped from Aswan, Egypt which took 10 months to arrive. Now the people have enclosed those columns to make homes. Diocletian brought 6 black granite sphinxs from Aswan to his Palace to help in the underworld. He died at 73 years of age. When the Christians came they destroyed the heads of the sphinxs because they represented a pagan religion. But one was hidden and is still in tact. Since the mausoleum was designed and used by a Roman pagan emperor, the Christians turned it into a temple in the 15th- 16th century to hold a mass. They removed all the pagan frescoes, added 5 windows and got rid of Diocletian's urn of ashes. All that is left is the Roman structure. The outside is octagonal, but the inside is circular. There are 23,198 bricks in the domed roof. It is ironic that the patron saint of this town is now Saint Dominick who Diocletian had originally beheaded. The door is of carved walnut but resembles the bronze door in Florence. The first mass ever held in the world was here in 428 AD in this small cathedral. There is an eagle perched on top of the pulpit and a pipe organ that is regularly used. It has 3 altars, but only one has been used for the last 300 years. It contains the bones and skull of a saint which is displayed once a year for 7 days only. At Jupiter's Temple there is a 15 foot hollow bronze sculpture of John the Baptist holding up 4 fingers representing N, S, E, and W. He holds a bowl in his left hand which is closest to his heart.
We sat in the open square outside the palace drinking cappuccinos. This was actually, during the days of Diocletian, inside the sea. They have added a large square out into the sea and it is where they all socialize. When the weather permits the people are always outside. The idea is to see or to be seen. Lots of leggings in all colors-purple, black, white, striped; plenty of boots and coats, strollers, dogs, cats all unleashed; boots going over the knees and extremely high heeled boots. This enormous palace has been altered very little to facilitate it's usage. The mausoleum, Jupiter's temple, colonnades along the Roman
streets, early Croatian churches and Romanesque houses are still preserved. There are many cafes and shops here now.The people have built their houses up against the walls leaving the original walls intact. They just incorporate the original wall into their homes and restaurants.
When the Avars and Slavs attacked the town, the citizens fled into the Diocletian Palace to be safe. In 812 AD to 1069 AD the Byzantine
Empire annexed Croatia, Then in 1105 the Hungarians controlled the Croatian Kings. In the 16th century they were threatened by the
Ottomans. In 1797 Venice fell and Dalmatia went under Austrian rule. In 1882 it was under a Croatian administration and was heavily
bombed in WWII due to it's military presence.